Untamed America
On the eastern coast of Virginia, the barrier island of Chincoteague repels the rolling breakers of the Atlantic Ocean. Untamed horses have roamed this coastal wilderness for hundreds of years, and symbolise the indomitable spirit of this small, tightly knit community.
But nobody knows for sure how the island’s wild ponies came into existence. “Legend has it that in the 16th century a Spanish galleon got caught in a violent storm on the way to South America,” says Chincoteague native – or ‘Teaguer’ – Roe Terry. “On board were Arabian horses that managed to swim ashore when the ship was wrecked. They ate what they could to survive, and drank the brackish water. While a poor diet stunted their growth, the animals continued to thrive and breed on the island, evolving into what is known today as the Chincoteague pony. A touch on the romantic side, I admit, but not beyond the realms of possibility,” Terry says.
These hardy survivors have since become a stellar attraction. The annual pony roundup and channel swim draws an amazing 50,000 spectators every summer. The event dates back to the early 1920s, when the newly founded volunteer fire department needed funds for equipment after two fires wiped out most of the town’s primarily wooden structures. “They turned for help to the most precious of the island’s resources – its wild ponies,” explains Fire Company President Billy Joe Tarr.
“The volunteer firemen – or ‘saltwater cowboys’ as we call them – drove the herd across the channel between Assateague and Chincoteague to sell the foals at auction,” adds Terry. The event has taken place ever since, and the funds raised continue to go to the local community. Being a saltwater cowboy still carries a lot of prestige in these parts.
The island’s fortunes, however, are not only tied to the ponies. Out in the surf, animal life of a far more diminutive nature continues to play a role.
For generations, the waters around Chincoteague have supported a thriving seafood industry – during the 19th and early 20th centuries, the island’s oysters, clams and crabs were shipped as far as Baltimore, Philadelphia, and even New York. Chincoteague oysters were once so popular that overly eager New Yorkers, anticipating their arrival at the Fulton Fish Market docks, often engaged in fistfights in their rush to snap up the choicest bivalves.
The Chincoteague oyster industry was devastated in the 1950s, however, when an infection wiped out most of the oysters. “Those were certainly tough times,” says Sheila Faith, of Chincoteague’s Oyster and Maritime Museum, “but the watermen gradually found other work, with many turning to clams or crabs to earn a living.”
Today the shellfish aquaculture industry is making a comeback in the bays of Chincoteague. Around 100 hectares of bay bottom is leased primarily for growing clams, although oysters are also on the menu. “Virginia is now the number one producer of aquaculture clams in the US,” says Tommy Mason, owner of Tom’s Cove Aquafarms.
Working among Chincoteague’s idyllic scenery might seem like the perfect workplace, but a waterman’s way of life is far from easy. “You’re totally at Mother Nature’s mercy,” explains Mason.
“One big Atlantic storm can wipe out everything. Still, once I get in the water and all covered in mud, I forget all my stresses and strains. I’ve been messing around in the sea since I was a kid so, for me, aquaculture was a natural progression.”
Constantly reshaped by the restless Atlantic, Virginia’s barrier islands are a unique habitat. Occasional storms may drive waves and sands so forcefully that beach and shoreline change dramatically, but for most of the year the islands are a haven for flora and fauna.
At the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge, a short cycle ride from Chincoteague town, the wild ponies share over 14,000 acres of unspoiled beachfront, dunes, marsh and forest, with a diverse range of species.
“This is a key stop for birds migrating up and down the east coast of North America,” explains Lou Hinds, manager of the refuge. “Our management programmes aim to enhance this coastal environment for the benefit of these birds, as well as nesting species and other indigenous wildlife.
“Depending on the time of year, visitors can expect to see bald eagles, ospreys, snowy egrets, pelicans, peregrine falcons and a huge variety of other birds. If you’re lucky you might also spot a rare Delmarva Peninsula fox squirrel or loggerhead turtle. November and December are great months to see wildfowl, including tens of thousands of snow geese.”
Chincoteague Refuge is a paradise for hikers and cyclists, with 25 kilometres of public trails. Early risers are rewarded with inspirational sunrises over the long sandy beach and nearby marshes, and glimpses of wild ponies feeding in the dawn mist. Those after the best view of the refuge should head for the Assateague Lighthouse, which towers 43 metres over the landscape. “The lighthouse dates back to 1833,” explains Hinds, “and has warned countless passing ships and local watermen of Assateague’s shallow waters.”
With Chincoteague Island just over two hours by car from Washington DC, more of the capital’s residents are now heading south for the weekend. “Chincoteague was just named best US beach town,” says Christian Gerhard, “but my husband and I have known about it for years. We tell our friends to check out Washington’s sights, of course, but Chincoteague is the best place to commune with nature on the East Coast.” Unlike the origin of the island’s ponies, that’s a fact that few can dispute.
Water born
The best way to appreciate Chincoteague and Assateague, and to see the ponies up close in their natural environment, is to take to the water. Tours by born and bred Teaguer Dan Jester – known to everyone as Captain Dan – are perennially popular.
“I worked as a fisherman for many years,” explains Dan, “but when the fishing boat I was on nearly sank in a storm I decided to set up business a little closer to the shore. My great- grandfather, C. Ray Jester, was a famous oysterman, so life on the water runs in the family.
“Tours typically last from 90 minutes to two hours,” he continues. “Depending on the weather we go out in the morning, at sunset, and at night. Wildlife you might see includes eagles, ibises, dolphins, sika and white-tailed deer, as well as the ponies.” See www.captaindanstours.com
Chincoteague fact file
GETTING THERE
KLM operates a direct daily flight from Amsterdam Airport Schiphol to Washington Dulles International Airport. Chincoteague is around two hours drive from the centre of Washington DC.
WASHINGTON
Live out your West Wing fantasies on a White House tour (www.whitehouse. gov), go undercover at the International Spy Museum (www.spymuseum.org), or wonder at the big man at the Lincoln Memorial (www.nps.gov).
WHERE TO STAY
In Washington, the Jefferson Hotel is a small historic spot with views of downtown and the Potomac River. In Chincoteague, the Channel Bass Inn is comfortable and homely – try the homemade scones (www.channelbassinn.com). Refuge Inn is close to the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge (www.refugeinn.com).
WHERE TO EAT
Enjoy a crab and shrimp martini and steamed clams at Sea Shell Café (www.theseashellcafe. com). Or try Woody’s Beach BBQ, for delicious ribs, pulled pork, beans and coleslaw. (www.woodysbeachbbq.com)
GETTING AROUND
The Pony Express covers most of the island. Buses run daily from 5pm until 11pm, for 25¢.
